Notes » October 2007

Chung Yeung Festival

For a long time I've wanted to photograph Hong Kong's grave-sweeping tradition but never got around to it.

Things fell into place this year during the Chung Yeung Festival (重陽節); I visited Wo Hop Shek Chinese Cemetery (和合石) near Fanling to climb the steep hills in search of images that represent the wonderful custom of honouring one's ancestors.

My presence as the sole foreigner among thousands of local Chinese attracted a lot of attention, not all of it good: several people cast disapproving looks in my direction, and a few made comments or asked what I was doing there (I fail to understand why some folks get offended when a foreigner takes an interest in their culture; you'd think they'd be flattered). Had it not been for my Chinese friend who was taking photos alongside me, the situation would have been a lot more uncomfortable.

One cemetery worker even told us we weren't allowed to take photos, but he was hassling us based on his own beliefs and not from any policy against photography. In no way were we disrespectful during our shoot: we didn't shove our cameras in people's faces or stalk them around corners like paparazzi.

That's not to say that everyone was against us: as we passed one family having a celebration picnic, I smiled and expressed in colloquial Cantonese that the barbequed piglet being chopped up (along with the rest of the spread) looked good. I'd meant it from a photographic/appearance perspective, but they dropped everything they were doing and in just seconds handed us paper plates with a slice of pork, offered other festival delicacies, and even produced cans of cold beer.

I was astounded.

And delighted.

Not with the food and drink (we only accepted the pork), but that they were so ebullient and willing to share their meal at the drop of a hat with someone who obviously didn't have an ancestor's grave anywhere near the place.

The family's name is Cheung, and though it's unlikely they will ever read this, I must express my heartfelt gratitude. By including us, even for a few minutes, they washed away all of the negativity and allowed us to participate rather than merely observe: that's extremely cool.

After that, I'm seriously considering tagging along with my mother-in-law when she observes next year's Ching Ming Festival.

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