Cheong Yuen Rice Wine

Most people think of rice wine as a Japanese product, but not many realise the Chinese have produced it for about 4,000 years.

Fewer still know that Hong Kong is home to one remaining Chinese winery, but not for long; the company is likely to fold.

The owner summed up the reason in one sentence: "I lose a customer whenever an old man dies in this city."

Hong Kong's last remaining Chinese winery will close within 18 months due to declining business.

The owner of 86-year-old Cheong Yuen Chinese Wine Merchant, in Possession Street, Sheung Wan, said he had failed to turn the tide because of the changing tastes of young people and stiff competition from mainland brands.

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"At the time, I thought I could turn the business around," Mr Suen said. "I had even dreamed one day that our wine would appear on the dining tables of the city government's dinners and banquets.

"Well, I've been proved wrong. Young people do not drink rice wine any more because they like red wine and beer. I lose a customer whenever an old man dies in this city.

"Unlike Man Yuen Noodle or Tai Cheong's egg tarts, rice wine is not something for everybody and it is not popular any more. This place is part of Hong Kong's heritage, especially the 200 wine pots here which are probably antiques. I want to keep it running but I can't. I will hang on as long as I can, but it will go within a year or 18 months," said Mr Suen, who was formerly a garment worker.

View large image The business was opened in 1920 at the cross-section between Queen's Road Central and Bonham Strand East and became one of the most famous wineries in town. The shop, which specialises in yu bing shao, with its strong meaty flavour, sold 2,000 bottles a day at its peak between the 1950s and 1970s. But it now sells only 5,000 bottles a month. Mr Suen said price competition from mainland imports had accelerated the downturn.

"The mainland brands are selling at HK$10 per bottle, while mine costs HK$25 each," he said. "We are using recycled bottles and these alone cost HK$1 each. We just cannot compete."

Now I'm intrigued; I've never tasted rice wine.

I might just amble on down to Cheong Yuen and pick up a bottle.

Photo by David Wong

Update:

I said I'd amble down to Cheong Yuen Chinese Wine Merchant, and I'm glad I did.

Although I'm not a fan of drinking the rice wine, as a marinade it's outstanding. I tried it with chicken first; not only did it enhance the meat's flavour, it added a subtle yet enticing rice fragrance.

Not bad for just $25. I can't wait to taste what the wine does to beef.

If you live in Hong Kong, I recommend a visit to Cheong Yuen, but bring a Cantonese-speaking friend if you don't speak the language, in case you have questions.

Follow Queen's Road West from Central to Possession Street, turn left and cross the street. The shop is halfway up the road at #22, ground floor.

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