Don't Swig

View large image Ah, cognac: the king of spirits.

Brands such as Hennessy, Rémy Martin, Courvoisier and Martell reign supreme in Hong Kong.

In local films, full snifters are tossed back like shots by triads to demonstrate manliness. Local businessmen buy X.O for guests in ostentatious displays of wealth and generosity. Guests are expected to imbibe in quantity.

Cognac isn't a drink to be trifled with; at 80 proof, it's a powerful kick in the head for little guys, and many Chinese weigh less than 160 pounds. Those inclined to treat cognac like tequila in a seedy Florida bar featuring wet tee-shirt contests would be better served by sipping to experience its complexities.

Why anyone would want to guzzle instead of savouring is beyond me.

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