Greatwall of China

When my wife returned home after visiting relatives on the first day of Lunar New Year, she presented me with a gift from one of her cousins: a 1998 Greatwall Cabernet.

View large image They'd been discussing my predilection for red wine and he sent a bottle.

It was a nice surprise, though I wasn't sure what to expect. I'm not a wine snob, but I know China isn't noted for being a quality wine-producer. Yet.

That's not to say they won't become so, but producing good wines takes time and skills. Greatwall, founded in 1983, won't produce anything of substance for some time.

My preferred reds are French; I tried Greatwall with some trepidation. I'd seen ads for it and had wondered if it were any good.

The tasting began when I pulled the cork. Its scent did little to assuage my concerns, but the fragrance is never my sole gauge as it can be misleading.

I filled the glass to one-third for the initial appraisal by sight, nose and palate. The wine was flat compared with the gorgeous, complex French wines, but it wasn't terrible. It would make a reasonable table wine. Greatwall wasn't great, but I'm glad for the opportunity to taste it.

Who knows? Given their interest and dedication, Chinese vineyards may turn out some excellent vintages.

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